Sunday, March 26, 2006

March 26th - Pilot RV Stanfield OR
N 45 45.888 W 119 12.463
It’s been a long time since I wrote anything on the computer - even my log from which this message and the Golden Falcon blog get updated. This is surely a function of my hectic lifestyle combined with almost no free days to sit down and tap away on the computer. This message is coming from the Pilot RV Park in Stanfield Oregon, my penultimate (The Omak Walmart being the last) stop before crossing the border.
At the time of writing the last e-mail, I was still in Arizona near Bouse. On March 13th, I pulled up stakes and headed for Moab, via Prescott National Forest, Flagstaff and Monument Valley. On the way, I stopped at the Bouse County Park to dump 6 weeks of black tank effluent (sewage) – this to lighten the load and improve my fuel consumption statistics for the mostly uphill route. My thought was to pass along #60, #71 and then #89, through Prescott to join up with I-40 which leads to Flagstaff, then get back on 89 for the northward trek. The Prescott road from Kirkland Junction was one of the twistiest ones that I have driven, highly scenic and , if one is not in a hurry, then highly recommended (not, however, if one is over 40’ in length). Prescott is an attractive small city at about 6500’ – there was snow all over the place from the storm of the last weekend but the road itself was fine. One day earlier and I might have had to contend with over a foot. Because of cool temps (29° and dropping through Flagstaff), I figured that I might as well keep on moving until getting somewhere a little lower and, hence, a little warmer. Monument Valley, where I ended up at the Mitten View Campground (N36 58.865 W110 06.881), is at 5600’ but temps levelled out a little below freezing and all was well. I stayed two nights and took the 17 mile scenic tour of Monument Valley in the truck on my free day. This place is incredible with buttes and mesas rising from the desert floor in huge red sandstone formations. The cliffs are sheer and rise up to 1000’. Mitten View is on the Navajo Tribal Park property and is run by the Indian band. The Visitor Center and end of the road are right next door (another $5.00 charge) with gift shop and restaurant (closed). They sell locally made Navajo rugs in the shop and have them displayed on the walls. The price range for these went up to $12000.00, though there were some bargains, none bigger than a queen sized blanket, for $8000.00 – $9000.00. Navajo blankets, an excellent purchase for campers, were $45.00. I was tempted but don’t really need a blanket.
With cool nights, I though that I would ration battery power by using the generator, since the furnace might have had to operate (at minimum heat) just to keep the water lines thawed. Monument Valley is a very impressive place and will likely be a regular stop on future journeys.

I got to Moab, part way up eastern Utah, on March 15th and settled into Ken’s Lake, a BLM campground near a waterfall coming off the red cliffs and located some 8 miles south of town. On Saturday, my friend Darch Oborne from Merritt, BC, arrived with his friend Howard Kelly. The plan was for them to camp in tents, use the trailer as a base of operations (a term chiefly involving food, beer and rum components). The campers survived two nights of hard ground, cool temps and general hardship before making an executive decision to move into a camping cabin at Portal RV, one of the commercial parks in Moab. To be sociable, I packed up the trailer and joined them. This was probably a good move, since Howard is the next best thing to a non-biker and seeks his entertainment on the Internet playing poker – this, in addition to truck-shuttling the two of us to our various bike ride departure points. I have been to Moab before and was well aware that most of the rides were at the upper limits of my competence and general state of fitness. There are no easy trails in Moab. Everything involves a climb of a thousand vertical feet or so with trails down ranging from slickrock with ledges to cliffside singletracks with every imaginable hazard, including, but not limited to, disappearance over the edge with a landing anywhere from 500 to 1000 feet below, a manoeuvre for which even the most expensive helmet fails to prevent instant death. For those who have been to Moab, the run names might be of interest. We did Porcupine Rim, Amasa Back - with a return along the “insanely” treacherous Jackson’s Trail, Gold Bar Rim, a trip of 27miles in all - steep climbs followed by the equally notorious, vertigo-inducing”, Portal Trail. We also rode Flat Pass, which isn’t flat at all, but happened to be near Ken’s Lake and was therefore convenient. To Moabians, these are all “epic” rides. Since I walked most of the steep stuff, my epic was really just a question of survival. Midweek, I decided to take a “day off”, since I was getting worn out. This was a good opportunity to take Howard for an “easy” ride. On the map, I had spotted a short, “green” category trail called Round Mountain. The map made no mention of the fact that it was for jeeps and ATVs but definitely not for bikes, since most of it was surfaced with loose cobblestones and involved quite steep climbs into and out of several deep gullies. Even though Howard pitched off his bike about five times and ended up covered in blood, I’m sure that this ride will go down in his books as being “memorable”, if not “epic”. Luckily, my trailer is equipped with vast quantities of Hydrogen Peroxide and bandages of every description, so we managed to put Howard (I was going to say Humpty) together again without too much mess. Darch had met one of our campground hosts who offered to act as guide. On the one trip that I joined, we still wouldn’t be back in camp today if not for the local knowledge. Anyway, that’s Moab; a good time was had by all.
We left Moab yesterday, March 25th, with Darch and Howard opting for a two day push back to Merritt, me choosing the more sedate route, planning to take about five days, of which this is the second. Yesterday afternoon, I was just pulling in to Twin Falls, Idaho, for fuel and then a night in the parking lot at a Flying J Truck Stop, when, all of a sudden, an opaque red cloud of dust blew in, obliterated almost all visibility, covered everything, including the entrance to the service station with a layer of dust and threatened to blow over the canopy of the station – under which I was hiding. This dust soon turned to rain and we had a heavy downpour for a while with high winds that lasted throughout the night. I was thankful that the timing was such that I was reasonably well protected at the Flying J rather than out on the highway. My radio station interrupted whatever it was broadcasting to give a few beeps and then an emergency message saying that winds of 70 mph (over 110 kph) were expected and that all semis and RVs should get off the road. I’m still upright, as is the trailer, though the nerve-calming rum and coke that I served myself, once I got set up, managed to slop over the table as the trailer rocked and rolled in the wind.
Unless I get diverted, I should make it home by the 28th after which the annual tussle with my water pump will likely occupy much of the following week – more on that later.

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

From Plomosa Road Camp 2 March 8th, 06

March 8th - still at Plomosa Road Camp 2
Hello All:
Dave and Lori Watkins, my friends from Saskatchewan (Lake Louise alumni 78’-79’) have come and gone in their motorhome (with VW camper toad). They discovered me with little difficulty using the GPS coordinates that I had provided – this despite the fact that Dave’s GPS reads every location off to the west by about 50’ from that given by my GPS. We enjoyed a three day visit during which a couple of bike rides, combined with geocaching (found G09, 10 & 13), filled in our time and gave all present plenty of exercise. One day, we did almost 15 miles, found three GO-caches and visited the Southern Cross Mine shaft. Their motor-home (1991 Holiday Rambler) has plenty of optional features, including an ice maker, bar fridge, built-in blender and various other components, all of which Dave keeps operating on his inverter and three 12V batteries. Something does not quite compute for me in terms of amps in and amps out but, it seems to work. He can always fire up his big generator if the batteries need some charging. They left from here for Lake Havasu to see the Western Pyrotechnics display of fireworks, one of the largest in the US. I decided not to go for the two hour drive but it might have been interesting.
I got the truck serviced in Parker on the 17th. Dave had mentioned that I should have the service people check the nitrates in my anti-freeze. Apparently, a lack of them can cause the motor to cavitate, thus damaging the cylinder walls. I have never heard of this before and the mechanic at Parker was unsure as well. He said that they check the specific gravity, so maybe that does the same thing?
The weather has been staying mostly clear, though there was one night with a bit of spattering recently – not enough to convince the flowers to make a showing, but….the thought was there.
A few days ago, I went in search of the GO-cache (G06) at an area known as Four Peaks, off to the NW. I found the exact co-ordinates at a Game Water enclosure set up by the wildlife people but could not locate the Cache. Since then, I have made a return trip to the site and did find the Cache – inside the fenced enclosure which had, I thought, been erected to keep people like me out. Feeling guilty about being co-opted into this illicit activity, I decided that a letter of protest to the GeoCache Website might be in order. On the way home, I passed by a monument to the Bouse Fishermen (not sure what that is all about since there isn’t a drop of water for miles around), an intaglio on a rock pedestal in a fenced area in the middle of the desert. I also climbed a small hill to discover G0 14. In all, this loop was just under 20 miles – a good day’s work. In addition, I made a loop (15 miles) to the Jewel Mine, on the side of the next valley east from the Southern Cross Mine. This is another unprotected shaft that seems to drop down a long way, judging from the rock I tossed. On another day, I climbed back to the Twin Arch Mountain (hill) for a return attempt at discovering the G0-Cache (G08) up near the top (my initial failure in the sport). This, I have now accomplished, so the overall success rate is improving.
I have been going up to the town of Parker for Internet access, groceries and other shopping purposes, including getting new brake pads for the bike. In anticipation of my visit to Moab in a couple of weeks, I had better get a grip on things, particularly the back wheel, if I want to get down some of those trails in one piece. Parker, on the Colorado River is, actually, a couple of miles further to drive to than Quartzsite but more convenient for shopping and wireless Internet access at the library there.
Darch Oborne, my friend from Merritt, has now confirmed that he and another friend, Howard Kelly, will meet me in Moab on the 18th or 19th. They are bringing tents and will camp with me at Ken’s Lake, about 7 miles south of town (N38° 29.107’ W109° 25.750’).
I have been pondering my best route north from here and think that the road through Prescott and the Prescott National Forest might be interesting. On the map it looks extremely tortuous and has elevations over 6000’, though I suspect there will be no snow. Rather than going through Sedona and on to Flagstaff (over 7000’), my option might be to go north up # 89 through the Forest to I 40, then over to Flagstaff via Williams.
My nearest neighbour here at PlmRd2, whom I had not met even though they are only 100 yds away and have been here as long as I have, came over the other day and told me about the miracle Asthma cure for him and arthritis cure for his wife that they had discovered down in Mexicali, in Mexico across the border from Calexico. He said that a doctor there, who also practices at the Mayo clinic, was able to provide medications not available in the U.S. and that the symptoms of both their ailments simply disappeared. Maybe that’s what I should consider if the hip program in BC doesn’t proceed apace.
The holding tanks have now been operating for 5 weeks since the last dump trip, so I’m hoping they will hold out until I actually make the move north in about a week. This standard of waste management is achieved only by tossing the dish water out in the bushes and visiting neighbouring cacti for all but the most pressing of washroom engagements. I could just let the grey water go in a crisis (allowed on BLM lands) but prefer the challenge of pushing my system to its limits.
Time of departure from here is a little uncertain, since I will be into cooler climes and higher elevations as soon as I leave. I am contemplating a stopover on the way somewhere near Monument Valley, on Navajo Indian land in both southern Utah and Northern Arizona. This is an area of huge monolithic rock formations rising a thousand plus feet from the desert floor. I might also return to the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park for a day or two to retake some of the five rolls of film that didn’t turn out two years ago when I first visited the area. Anyway – lots to think about, so I had better head for the library to send this message.
Incidentally, I have included a photo of the Twin Arch hill, just so that you will get an idea of the types of places that people hide their Geo-caches. G08 was right up top between the two arches.
From the news, an item struck my eye as it had to do with the Chinese aerial skiers. Apparently they don’t know about or, for reasons known only to themselves, don’t wear, mouth guards. Often, when landing, the neck gets snapped hard into the snow of the jump outrun and tongues, presumably wagging ones, have been detached. According to USA Today, this occurred in Turin a few weeks ago. Should be no complaints from that particular competitor – at least, not verbal ones!
Keep in touch
JW